Surprising Taiwan

Natural Jianshi Hot Spring (part 2)

2009-11-19T22:00:00.000-08:00

There are two small, shallow pools under cover and a deck of sorts where I have seen people taking a nap.

Being Taiwan people normally enjoy the water wearing a swimsuit or underwear. However, when it is only the guys, it is not unusual to enjoy the soaking au naturel.

The environment is greatly unspoilt because of the difficulty getting there which makes it so much more attractive to nature lovers. Nothing like enjoying a nap on a rock right in the middle of the Taiwanese Jungle.

Jianshi Hot Spring (Part 1)

2009-11-18T21:51:00.000-08:00

If you have access to one of these, this popular family spot is easily in reach between Taoyuan and Hsinchu, in Jianshi.

Although the road is VERY rocky with fragments piling up in uneven heaps after rains, it doesn't stop 4x4 owners to practice their skills going down. I don't own an SUV but that just means I had to park my scooter higher up the mountain and walk down - something even SUV owners do as the road pays testimony to the difficulty of maneuvering even a off-road vehicle down.

At the bottom of the road lies a hot spring next to the river. AND it's free. Well, not really hot, but warm enough to count as a hot spring. After bathing in the icy river first the heat of the hot spring is very welcome. So, on week-ends groups camp here, barbecue and enjoy the environment.

Angelic in 228 Park

2009-11-04T02:08:00.000-08:00

As I was waiting for Michelle in 228 Park, I noticed unusual activity in one area. Passersby were staring and ogling.

Some young men were applying body make-up to a friend, and I was under the impression that a photo shoot was being prepared for.

It turned out that preparation was being made to participate in Taipei Pride 2009.

The costume was hand-made by the wearer, but he called in the help of his friends with the fitting.

The end result is stunning and a red angelic creature is born.

The wings are heavy and difficult to keep in place, upon the shoulders. Likewise, the tail seems to be awkward to pull behind.

However, he walked the whole two and half hours, posed for many pictures, ....

... and brought glittering attention to the plight of gays, not only in Taiwan but across Asia. Hopefully Mr. Ma took notice of the inequalities in Taiwanese law, which hurt the LGBT minority of Taiwan.

If the shoe fits, ..... you're a fairy.

2009-10-31T18:16:00.000-07:00

Remnants of typhoon Morakot were still evident. Driftwood piled up all over Taiwan's coast for weeks after the devastating typhoon flooded the South.

Hoodoo stones in the shape of candles are clustered next to the sea. The softer surrounding part is eroded faster than the harder center, leaving a candle-like shape.

Other shapes like this amazing stone resembling a sandal are also formed by erosion alone.

Generally, public toilets in Taiwan are clean. However, toilet paper is not provided. For men the urinals lack privacy as they are visible from outside. Western toilets are increasing in Taiwan but squat toilets like this one are still common place. Once you get the hang of it, it is not so awkward to use.

In summer Taiwan gets very hot and humid. Water is sold everywhere as it is not safe to drink tap water. Sports drinks like Supau are popular. A shady seat in Yehliu provides a break from the sun.

Hoodoos clustered closely together can be seen in the background. Closer one can see the driftwood. It was being cleared by a crane when we visited Yehliu.

Right outside Yehliu Geopark, a row of shops sell a few souvenirs and plenty of Taiwanese snacks. We saw Chinese tourists stocking up on the famous Taiwanese foods.

Mother took the opportunity to snap a picture of this fellow taking a nap next to his wares. It is commonplace for Taiwanese to nap after lunch.

Trying on a hat. This was something needed in the blistering heat.

A beautiful picture of exposed stones under a pedestrian arch during low tide.

Decapitating the Queen

2009-10-29T17:05:00.000-07:00

The Yehliu Geopark is quite famous in Taiwan, and it should be famous all over the world.

However, as with most Asian countries, marketing itself to Western tourists has fallen short, mostly because it takes decades for the concerned ministries to understand that Westerners in general speak English, either as first or second language. I am not saying that English is better in a way of form, but it is the lingua franca of the West.

Erosion caused by wind and waves (Just think of all those typhoons every year!) has sculpted formations out of rocks to make interesting patterns and shapes.

The strange formation happens because of different strengths in the rock, so that the softer parts erode first.

Pedestrian arches connect the eroded beach. One walks along a narrow path with a beautiful view on both sides. Mineral deposits paint colorful stripes on the exposed rock.

A statue (not statute, Minister!) reminds us of the treacherous currents at places on the coast of Taiwan.

Although the situation is improving with many schools providing swim lessons, a huge chunk of Taiwanese society is unable to swim. Taiwan being an island, and the abundance of rivers make this a strange and dangerous state of affairs as Taiwanese like the rest of the world enjoy the pleasures of water.

The area provides opportunity for taking amazing photos.

Before descending to some of the most well-known shapes, called hoodoos, we see them grouped together. An elevated wooden pathway ensures that most people stay off the rock, minimizing erosion and defacing by tourists. The rocks also get very slippery in wet weather.

The face of Wanli. The shape, called The Queen's head is the unofficial emblem of the local town of Wanli. One can clearly see how hoodoos are formed. The head looks a lot harder than the neck, so that eventually the neck will wear through and decapitate the queen.

Taiwan Beer brings people together

2009-10-25T22:27:00.000-07:00

The army boys were on leave and so it was a good time to indulge in some Taiwan Beer in front of the store.

A couple of meters down from Michael's home and the store, a waterfall makes a splendid view.

But we are down here for the cool mountain water. And who needs swim wear in Taiwan - undies will do fine. Nothing like enjoying a refreshing swim and basking in the sun afterwards.

Michael looking kewl in the shades.

Pleasing the gods!

2009-10-14T03:39:00.001-07:00

I was on my scooter when I heard the banging. Immediately I suspected a temple ceremony and looked around for the source. And there it was. Huge puppets were worn as costumes and paraded through the streets.

The costumes were very colorful and match the average temple in color and design. I followed the procession along with the hired carriers and spectators.

Two young men had spiked sticks in their hands and they repeatedly hit their heads as they followed, so that blood was streaming down their faces onto their torsos.

The local participants were guided in the ritual by older people who seemed to be there especially for that reason. On a pickup in front of the temple a band was executing the temple sounds on their instruments.

The spectators and participants were all extremely friendly and even asked to be photographed.

Mock fighting ensued between the different characters and eventually everyone arrived at the small temple among the houses in a narrow alley. Incense was burned and an evil spirit exorcised while drums were chiming a steady rhythm.

Then it was a quick light meal for all, and the hired temple throng was off by bus to the next one. As this procession happened in the morning hours everything was done rather faster than it would be in the afternoon going towards evening I suspect.

The Atayal in Jianshi

2009-10-12T23:17:00.000-07:00

Neiwan and Jianshi are both Atayal country. All over evidence of a tribal heritage is visible. Often the first sign Taiwanese tribes leave is the colorful decorations, not dissimilar from traditional Africa.

Until relatively recently the aborigines relied heavily on hunting and fishing for survival. Hunting by using bow and arrow and spearfishing used to be common.

But as Taiwan became a modern country, so have the aborigines. Hunting, I am told is still done on a controlled basis, and with firearms. However, the wildlife of boar and deer that once was abundant has dwindled. Spearfishing, along with angling, is a hobby that can still be witnessed in the rivers around Jianshi.

Luckily the headhunting of an bygone area (decapitation of conquered enemy was custom) is truly in the past, and ordinarily the most frightening encounter in these regions would be the huge orb spiders (which are harmless).

Notice the spider to the left of the statue.

Twenty three siblings!

2009-10-06T23:59:00.000-07:00

Finding large families these days is not an easy task but while spending time in Jinshi I met youngsters who were part of a 23 sibling family. I was told by one of the boys that all of them share the same mother and that their parents have been married for 23 years. Some full time job she has!

As the family is part of an aboriginal tribe, Atayal I believe, one wants to feel sorry for the children as reports about unemployment and poverty among the Taiwanese aborigines are well-known. However, the children I met looked healthy and were all attending school - some in Jianshi and the older ones boarding school in Hsinchu.

Their house is large but seems small for such a numerous family. However, since some kids have moved out, and some others in boarding school I suppose it is sufficient. Imagine waking up every morning with a splendid view of the evergreen mountains and spending vacations cavorting in the rivers.

Tudigong at the Hongludi temple

2009-07-07T20:38:00.000-07:00

On one of the many hills in Xindian the temple of the Earth God can be found. He is called Tudigong and the temple is situated high on a hilltop called Hongludi, but many cyclists and joggers brave the incline to worship Tudigong for good fortune and virtue.

Just before the last bend reaching the top a triceratops on the left side of the road awaits. Not sure if this is in any way connected to the temple, but I surmise not, as a factory making cement sculptures is located downhill. The factory might be responsible for the triceratops as well as the work on the temple, though.

On either side of Tudigong a dragon is featured.

On the first balcony / platform colorful scenes show life in ancient Chinese times. Not too sure if tigers were commonly ridden, though.

Here a dragon horse is ridden amongst the clouds.

But to actually worship one needs to ascend the hundreds of steps.

Right at the base of the steps lions guard the gods. As with most sculptures of lions in Taiwan they look more cute than fierce, ...

... especially with the permed mane.

The railing of the steps is decorated with many different bas relief sculptures depicting nature scenes.

The view going up is spectacular, and as always Taipei 101 is the most prominent landmark.

Look out for the huge spiders in their webs between trees.

On landings between staircases the roofed rest areas are beautifully decorated with colorful paintings.

On the roof of one of the rest areas a small scene depicts a pot-bellied man holding a smaller person (possible a boy), while a half-naked man (or young child) points to them.

Maybe this banner tell more. Hopefully someone able to read Chinese can leave a message explaining the meaning.

On a pillar I noticed an angry face. Not sure if this is suppose to be a lion, but it reminds me of the ones I saw on the wall of the dilapidated building on Guanyin beach.

After the long climb up one can eat at a small restaurant and buy a beverage, something that comes as a big welcome. For tourists the view is spectacular, but for others praying to the gods is more important.

Sūào Cold Spring (蘇澳冷泉)

2009-06-25T06:54:00.000-07:00

Most people are aware of hot springs which one can find all over the world, and of course are very popular in winter in countries where the temperature dips below freezing, like Japan.

But in Sūào (蘇澳), in Yilan county, a cold spring believed to have medicinal properties puts this sleepy town on the map.

We paid NT$70 per person and enjoyed a lazy morning in the cold waters, hopefully curing whatever skin ailments we may have.

There is an interesting elevated walk way, and arty sculptures to liven up the place.

The baths look old but in a good way. It is also quiet, except for the Kindergarten across the street which was practicing an upcoming musical of sorts.

The water is crystal clear and almost odorless. The bottom of the pool is packed with pebbles from which bubbles rise constantly. I almost expected to see fish swimming around. The water with the bubbles is apparently similar to soda water one can expect to buy as a beverage. So, if soda water is your choice of mixer, all you need to bring is the harder stuff.

For a water massage one can sit under one of several forceful streams spouting into the pool.

As it was a cloudy day and midweek it was not very busy and I could imagine spending the day with a book, alternating between the warm paving and cold water.

People came and left in a constant trickle and I spoke to a group of students who came all the way from Taoyuan to see the sunrise, which was a disaster because of heavy cloud cover and to enjoy the cold spring.

We left the pools, turned pink as we didn’t feel the sun burning through the clouds.

For more information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Su-ao_Cold_Spring or http://tourguide.sinotour.com/scenery774.html

Jinshan Beach (金山鄉) Surfing

2009-06-21T03:12:00.001-07:00

Taiwan is definitely not high on the list when it comes to surfing destinations, but maybe that is just what the beginner needs. The waves are almost always calm enough for the utmost beginner to learn the ropes without fear of being overwhelmed by the rolling giants of Hawaii, for example.

The most famous beach for surfing is Honeymoon Bay, but because of proximity Daxi is popular with experienced enthusiasts. For those among us who would like to get our balance on steadier water closer to Taipei, Jinshan (金山鄉) is a 40 minute scooter ride over Yaming Mountain. There are two beaches in Jinshan: The surf beach lies West of Jinshan, while the popular swimming beach is right in town.

One can rent surfboards and get experienced surfers to point out the tricks of the trade.

Although most of the would-be surfers are male, even the pretty sex is into it.

There are some restaurants within walking distance but right by the beach one can buy soft drinks, beer and Taiwanese sausage.

The beach is not the cleanest in Taiwan, but that doesn’t stop people from soaking up the sun.

Some younger guys were throwing and kicking a rugby ball around before collectively attempting to surf.

Skimboarding into the oncoming wave makes for safe but rewarding moves and great action shots….

… even if it takes all day to get it right.

Kite-surfing at Guanyin Beach (觀音)

2009-06-14T00:58:00.000-07:00

Taiwan’s North Coast on the Taiwan Strait has some of the most polluted beaches in Taiwan. Indications that these beaches used to be popular and clean can still be seen in the form of empty and deteriorating buildings. Entrances to these once splendid beaches are barred and probably with reason as the next flesh eating super bug most definitely will be spawned from these waters.

One such a beach is Guanyin (觀音). The beach is still accessible but only if you know how to get there. The exits from Road 61 have been blocked and the only road leading to the beach is through the town itself. The sign post is covered but since roadworks have made the road it points to a cul-de-sac, it doesn’t matter anyhow.

However, kite surfer aficionados are using this mostly desolated beach to practice their hobby. On a windy day several kites supporting their drivers can be seen on the brown waters.

They use the dilapidated buildings as a meeting spot, but never venture inside (anymore) as the interior is laden with defecation which seems strategically placed as if done in some weird ritual.

Some of the decorative artifacts are still visible but it is debatable whether anyone would want a faux gargoyle looking down onto a living room.

The beach itself is littered with whatever you can imagine. I recently saw underwear and a syringe in between the usual array of things disposed of by person and factory.

It contrasts sharply with the efforts to be green using wind-generated electricity as can be seen in the distance.

At first I thought the kite surfers mad to surf in thirty degrees Celsius wearing wetsuits, thinking they were taking sunblock a bit too far, but now I understand.

However, should you want to join the sport of kite-surfing, the wind (and the lack of people you might decapitate) makes Guanyin Beach a worthwhile destination.

For beginners the strong winds might be agonizing and I have seen some novices battle to control their kites, and even stay put on their behinds out of frustration.

But for the experienced, it must be a hell of a ride (or flight). Nico from http://www.nicowsf.com can assist would be kite-riders in Taiwan.

To get there follow Road 112 from Zhongli and in Guanyin (觀音) follow the sign to Baishajia Light House, but turn right in Shinyi Rd., or 15 from Hsinchu and in Guanyin turn left in Shinyi Rd. At the temple the road turn sharp left. Follow it under Road 61 and you will see the buildings. A landmark is a huge statue of Guan-Yin, a goddess on your left. The Guanyin township’s website is http://www.guanyin.gov.tw/en/p6_3.html

Zhúběi beach in the late afternoon.

2009-06-10T20:12:00.000-07:00

Looking for a place to sun my body, I eventually happened upon a beach in Zhúběi (竹北). Not the best beach in Taiwan but then this IS the Northern West Coast where good beaches have been ruined in order to establish the industrial heart of Taiwan.

A place where fish apparently commit suicide in a desperate attempt to escape the polluted sea.

Unfortunately, it was a bit late in the afternoon to obtain that all-over shade of mud, so I scrutinized the activities on the beach.

A group of people were digging up worms for bait, and told me they are edible.

Sure they are, but do we want to? I’ll leave them for the hungry fish.

Some men, all colleagues had time off and decided to make a day of it. My first impression was that they were a rugby team who came out for bonding. I should remember that rugby is for many locals as alien as biltong. Energetically running around they were in high spirits and full of fun. I would have loved to talk more but my Mandarin still sucks. I must say that even with limited knowledge of each other’s languages something as mundane as a language barrier has never stopped Taiwanese from communicating, or at least trying, and living up to their reputation as one of the friendliest peoples in the world.

A guy can never have a too developed six-pack – ask any forty-year-old! As for the rest, well…

I was wrong about the rugby, but ball play it was. The round ball is definitely more known than the oval one.

They were more than willing to pose and I got several pictures of good-looking Taiwanese men.

Then a Vietnamese national started a conversation. As he doesn’t live too far, he often cycles to the beach and enjoy the warm water. He is a multi-lingual person who can speak Vietnamese, Mandarin and English. But, even adding a Business degree, finding a job in Vietnam proved difficult. So, he came to Hsinchu, leaving behind a wife and child. Being separated from my spouse by an ocean for two years, I know how hard and lonely it can be. Daily webcam just isn’t the same.

And as the sun left to shine its light on a different scene, it was time to head home.

Swimming in the Xindian River

2009-06-07T21:38:00.001-07:00

One of my favorite haunts when in Taipei is next to the Xīndiàn River (新店溪) not too far from Bitan (碧潭). During the week it is frequented by regulars, mature men (and women) who have been using this spot to facilitate their daily exercise in the form of a brisk swim across the river. A fleet of taxis is usually evident of the popularity among taxi drivers but also bears testimony to their mobility through their work.

On week-ends the crowd changes to families who sometimes barbecue and school children and as the water is rather deep and the current at times strong, a volunteer life-guard is on duty. This is also where the life-guards in the Xīndiàn (新店市) area receive their training during summer.

Recently, I walked into an old acquaintance at the river which was a blessing as it can get quite lonely with the language barrier. I take all the blame, as it is I who should learn the language of the local population rather than them learning to speak English.

Felix has been coming here for the past ten years or more and has a suntan to show. He is in the lucky position that he lives very close. As a regular he also knows the other frequents and since he speaks English he acts as my interpreter when the need arises.

A couple of years ago, so I am told, storm water after a typhoon washed away or damaged much of the artificial river’s edge and had to be rebuilt. There even used to be a bridge which now lies at the bottom of the river. Markers in the water warn swimmers that it is dangerous to venture blindly onto the collapsed bridge’s debris lurking under the water where steel and concrete can cause bodily harm.

Fishermen line the edge on a good day, but I am told the best time to catch the big one is right after a typhoon when the giants of the river are washed down over the dam wall.

The regulars believe the water to be almost pure and even drinkable, something I won’t try. Not far upstream a net of sort removes litter from the river and water is extracted by a water plant for household use.

Therefore, one sees people coming to the water daily to take a bath. It is a scene reminiscent of an age before running water and electricity but strangely has the appeal of culture not lost. Although this routine is mostly followed by older men and women, I have seen school children bring soap and wash themselves, too.

But not only people congregate here, dogs are brought here for their daily swim. The different personalities show clearly as some dogs can’t wait to jump into the water while others stay clear.

Many owners play fetch with their dogs so repeatedly that I sometimes fear the dog will drown from exhaustion. And then the river is also a good place to wash the dogs!

For me, it is just the place to spend the day in the sun. Or if that gets too much, the coffee shop overlooking the river is within walking distance.

Sheipa National Park to Luodong via Sansing.

2009-06-04T04:23:00.000-07:00

Driving back one could see mountain upon mountain as if looking into a mirror reflecting itself. What treasures aren’t hidden in these dense areas!

Going through the watermelon basket of Taiwan we had to stop at a road stall to munch on sticky juicy watermelon slices.

As a child I obstinately refused to put my mouth to watermelon but instead dedicated myself to remove all the seeds from the offerings with a knife. So I understood the reluctance of the kids to stuff themselves with the sticky stuff.

In Sansing (三星), being the green onion town we visited a green onion store where they even sold green onion ice-cream.

I opted for strawberry and as it was out of this world went for a second helping of chocolate flavor.

In Luódōng (羅東) we went to their famous sports park, and the whole of Luódōng (羅東) had the same idea. But this park is REALLY beautiful.

And practical. It offered tennis, basketball and baseball facilities to the sports enthusiast; cafés to the hungry and weary; a swimming pool; and children could feed Koi in the ponds.

We had a cappuccino and tiramisu.

While the cappuccino was great, the tiramisu was everything but, which proves that not all things Japanese are better. We’ll stick to the original Italian, thank you.

But overall, it was just a place where one could relax if so inclined. We even had the luxury of a saxophone player!

This park beat the Forest Park in Taipei by far.

But unfortunately we had to leave, and the traffic….

Taoshan Waterfall (桃山瀑布) in the Sheipa National Park

2009-06-03T07:30:00.000-07:00

Not far from the camp grounds of Wuling Farm one finds Taoshan waterfall (桃山瀑布)which is in the Sheipa National Park! The foot path to the waterfall begins at the Wuling Farm hostel.
Within walking distance of my parents’ home we had three waterfalls and five more close by, so waterfalls don’t really pose an attraction unless they are really spectacular or one can swim in the pools. Here is a partial picture of the Lisbon Falls.

Lisbon Falls. Mpumalanga.
Originally uploaded by crashcalloway

The foot path is 3.4km long which didn’t sound too bad although we were told that it takes two hours to reach the waterfall. We debated whether we should go and asked some returning tourists whether it was worth our while. We were urged to go as it is a most splendid sight and a wondrous experience. So off we went.

The walk was tiring, especially for the kids whom I had to carry on my shoulders every now and then.

The path zigzagged up the mountain surrounded by the forest that kept sunshine to a minimum which made it easier for the older members of our party. Erosion seemed to be a big problem and was corrected or halted using sand bags and also by erecting barriers to stop people from taking short cuts through the forest.

Not everyone stuck to the path though, as the shortcuts really were shorter even though they were steeper.

Hours later we reached the fall and was greeted by this view.

It is a beautiful waterfall and as the water cascades down it reminds of a veil.

A recent land slide was evident and a yellow plastic ribbon barred a person from going too close, which was ignored by everyone.

A religious ceremony was underway in front of the waterfall and women were kneeling and wailing.

We had to carefully maneuver ourselves in order to take a picture in front of the fall without including the mourners.

Some tourists ignored the railing to get to the water, filling water bottles and praying at the edge of the pool.

The view down the mountain was mostly obscured by the forest but right at the waterfall one could get an indication of how high we actually were.

We were starving by the time we got back to the car, but my companions could not find the restaurant. The tea shop only sold tea and instant noodles – at tourist prices. In Taiwan where one can find streets of restaurants, food stalls and 7-11’s at every turn, this was just weird. A longer stay at Wuling Farm in order to really experience the ambience and the hidden treasures would have been worthwhile, but for a one-day trip I would not recommend it.

A short time at Wuling Farm

2009-06-02T10:56:00.000-07:00

We arrived at Wuling Farm (武陵農場) rather late and set up camp. Most people were already having a barbecue going – using gas, as fires were not allowed. My companions were excellent cooks and we had a delicious meal.

In one tent four of our male companions played Mahjong. I am not a skilled player and still play too slowly to join the seasoned gents. The temperature dropped to freezing and I slept in jeans and a jacket, and still the sleeping bag was proving inadequate.

Breakfast consisted of congee, a watery rice meal, but for me a traditional Western breakfast of toast and fried egg was made. After breakfast we set off to look at the nearby flower garden and herbal garden. The flowers were all dead and the herbal garden so neglected that it was difficult to distinguish between herb and weed.

Several campers headed in the same direction, and we learned that there was an ablution block which was less used and thus noticeable cleaner. A raised wooded walk path took us back to our camp past Hydrangeas being pollinated by giant bees. Even early in the morning one could see workers tending the tea plantations further up the mountain slopes.

Many early travelers had trouble navigating the grassy cover that was our camping floor as it was wet and wheels could not get a grip on the slippery growth. We avoided the wet, and now mushy areas when we drove out of the camping grounds.

On the way to Wuling Farm

2009-06-01T23:12:00.000-07:00

I was invited to go to Wuling Farm (武陵農場) on Friday. http://www.wuling-farm.com.tw/english/index.php As it was a public holiday for some it turned the weekend into a loooooong one. The idea was to meet the rest of our party just outside Taipei on Freeway 5 and it was clear as we got closer that everyone had the same idea. Not only was the traffic moving at a snail’s pace, the gas station that served as our meeting point was as busy as a night market. Because of the congested traffic, everyone was late and we got on our way hours later than planned. The gas station was just off the freeway but it took an hour to get back on Freeway 5 and the road was not any better until we got to Luódōng (羅東). Taiwan has proved itself to be an excellent tunnel constructor as it is so mountainous and I experienced a drive through a 13km tunnel.

It was a bright and sunny day and I felt a pang of regret to have to spend the day in a car. In Yuanshan (員山鄉) we headed for a famous restaurant. In Taiwan restaurants can become instantaneously famous by being featured on TV. A long line of people waited to be seated. Next door the same dish was sold so we went there. The restaurant which was nothing more than a hall with tables served fish balls in a soup. Not something we would call up market back home. As I am not a big fish fan, I declined eating the dish and instead had a vegetarian lunch box.

We drove for hours along a valley that looked more like a dry riverbed at times. I am told that during a typhoon the valley can turn into a river flooding farms and destroying crops. Crops mainly consisted of watermelon which were sold everywhere next to the road.

Higher into the mountains we encountered crops of cabbage. The cabbage patches made a pretty sight but often the smell of fertilizer was overwhelming.

We stopped in a village to buy some vegetables and use the bathroom. Some locals came out to introduce their children to me and as Caucasians are obviously not frequently seen I had my five minutes of fame.

The village seems to be of aboriginal or Atayal origin as seen in the art crafted to beautify the village. A church as opposed to a temple was also evident.

Dragonboat races in Longtan, Taiwan

2009-05-31T06:50:00.000-07:00

This week saw the Dragon boat festival in Asia (called Duānwǔ Jié (端午節) in Taiwan) and I went to Longtan to witness this event. An artificial lake in the center of town served as the host of the festivities. A platform on the one side of the lake offered some dragon dances performed by young children.

Around the lake stalls offering a variety of Taiwanese cuisine and miscellaneous products for entertainment to spectators.

But the main attraction were the races.
The origin of the festival is said to be the commemoration of the death of the poet Qū Yuán (屈原) who drowned himself. Admirers threw rice in the river to keep the fish from eating his body and paddled boats to scare away the fish. This started the annual eating of zòngzi (糭子), a sticky rice item wrapped in bamboo leaves and somehow the boat races.

Although some other locations allowed several boats to race at once only two boats here raced against each other. Competitors didn’t bring their own boats but instead had to use the given boats. To ensure a fair chance was given each team got to race twice, once with each boat, so that performance could not be pinned on a specific boat. Seventy-two teams entered and racing started at ten o’clock. Entering the race was open to anyone who dared. Elementary school teams to University teams entered. Sports teams and companies sent their entrants. Towns, villages and suburbs entered their teams. Some teams were limited to a certain age or sex, while others had a range of both on a single team.
Participants were mostly in high spirits and seemed to enjoy being there, even when they lost.

From the side spectators sang songs and chanted to encourage their team. As this is in the countryside I was surprised by some bystanders starting conversations with me in English. Taipei is known for being an International City and maybe the rest of Taiwan is catching up.

Sunny day next to the Wulai river.

2009-05-27T03:02:00.000-07:00

I love getting out of the city and frequent the rivers and streams. And without fail I am amazed by the contrast between the almost untouched nature scenes and the highly-polluted cities of especially the west in Taiwan. We had some sunny hours and next to the river was a good place to be.

Even close to Taipei one can find streams and ponds with fish.

Taiwan has its own huntsman which can be found among the rocks next to rivers.

A ravishing fellow ...

There were beautiful dragonflies in many different colors but I only managed to capture this blue one.

Muse

2006-06-07T21:00:00.000-07:00

Supposing an emperor was persuaded to wear a new suit of clothes whose material was so fine that, to the common eye, the clothes weren't there. And suppose a little boy pointed out this fact in a loud, clear voice ...

Then you have The Story of the Emperor Who Had No Clothes.

But if you knew a bit more, it would be The Story of the Boy Who Got a Well-Deserved Thrashing from His Dad for Being Rude to Royalty, and Was Locked Up.

Or The Story of the Whole Crowd Who Were Rounded Up by the Guard and Told 'This Didn't Happen, Okay? Does Anyone Want to Argue?'

Or it could be a story of how a whole kingdom suddenly saw the benefits of the 'new clothes', and developed an enthusiasm for healthy sports in a lively and refreshing atmosphere which got many new adherents every year, and led to a recession caused by the collapse of the conventional clothing industry.

It could even be a story about The Great Pneumonia Epidemic of '09.

It all depends on how much you know.

Thief of Time, by Terry Pratchett