Saturday, October 31, 2009

If the shoe fits, ..... you're a fairy.


Remnants of typhoon Morakot were still evident. Driftwood piled up all over Taiwan's coast for weeks after the devastating typhoon flooded the South.


Hoodoo stones in the shape of candles are clustered next to the sea. The softer surrounding part is eroded faster than the harder center, leaving a candle-like shape.


Other shapes like this amazing stone resembling a sandal are also formed by erosion alone.


Generally, public toilets in Taiwan are clean. However, toilet paper is not provided. For men the urinals lack privacy as they are visible from outside. Western toilets are increasing in Taiwan but squat toilets like this one are still common place. Once you get the hang of it, it is not so awkward to use.


In summer Taiwan gets very hot and humid. Water is sold everywhere as it is not safe to drink tap water. Sports drinks like Supau are popular. A shady seat in Yehliu provides a break from the sun.


Hoodoos clustered closely together can be seen in the background. Closer one can see the driftwood. It was being cleared by a crane when we visited Yehliu.


Right outside Yehliu Geopark, a row of shops sell a few souvenirs and plenty of Taiwanese snacks. We saw Chinese tourists stocking up on the famous Taiwanese foods.


Mother took the opportunity to snap a picture of this fellow taking a nap next to his wares. It is commonplace for Taiwanese to nap after lunch.


Trying on a hat. This was something needed in the blistering heat.


A beautiful picture of exposed stones under a pedestrian arch during low tide.

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Thursday, October 29, 2009

Decapitating the Queen

The Yehliu Geopark is quite famous in Taiwan, and it should be famous all over the world.


However, as with most Asian countries, marketing itself to Western tourists has fallen short, mostly because it takes decades for the concerned ministries to understand that Westerners in general speak English, either as first or second language. I am not saying that English is better in a way of form, but it is the lingua franca of the West.


Erosion caused by wind and waves (Just think of all those typhoons every year!) has sculpted formations out of rocks to make interesting patterns and shapes.


The strange formation happens because of different strengths in the rock, so that the softer parts erode first.


Pedestrian arches connect the eroded beach. One walks along a narrow path with a beautiful view on both sides. Mineral deposits paint colorful stripes on the exposed rock.


A statue (not statute, Minister!) reminds us of the treacherous currents at places on the coast of Taiwan.


Although the situation is improving with many schools providing swim lessons, a huge chunk of Taiwanese society is unable to swim. Taiwan being an island, and the abundance of rivers make this a strange and dangerous state of affairs as Taiwanese like the rest of the world enjoy the pleasures of water.


The area provides opportunity for taking amazing photos.


Before descending to some of the most well-known shapes, called hoodoos, we see them grouped together. An elevated wooden pathway ensures that most people stay off the rock, minimizing erosion and defacing by tourists. The rocks also get very slippery in wet weather.


The face of Wanli. The shape, called The Queen's head is the unofficial emblem of the local town of Wanli. One can clearly see how hoodoos are formed. The head looks a lot harder than the neck, so that eventually the neck will wear through and decapitate the queen.

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Sunday, October 25, 2009

Taiwan Beer brings people together

The army boys were on leave and so it was a good time to indulge in some Taiwan Beer in front of the store.

A couple of meters down from Michael's home and the store, a waterfall makes a splendid view.

But we are down here for the cool mountain water. And who needs swim wear in Taiwan - undies will do fine. Nothing like enjoying a refreshing swim and basking in the sun afterwards.

Michael looking kewl in the shades.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Pleasing the gods!

I was on my scooter when I heard the banging. Immediately I suspected a temple ceremony and looked around for the source. And there it was. Huge puppets were worn as costumes and paraded through the streets.


The costumes were very colorful and match the average temple in color and design. I followed the procession along with the hired carriers and spectators.


Two young men had spiked sticks in their hands and they repeatedly hit their heads as they followed, so that blood was streaming down their faces onto their torsos.


The local participants were guided in the ritual by older people who seemed to be there especially for that reason. On a pickup in front of the temple a band was executing the temple sounds on their instruments.


The spectators and participants were all extremely friendly and even asked to be photographed.

Mock fighting ensued between the different characters and eventually everyone arrived at the small temple among the houses in a narrow alley. Incense was burned and an evil spirit exorcised while drums were chiming a steady rhythm.


Then it was a quick light meal for all, and the hired temple throng was off by bus to the next one. As this procession happened in the morning hours everything was done rather faster than it would be in the afternoon going towards evening I suspect.

Monday, October 12, 2009

The Atayal in Jianshi

Neiwan and Jianshi are both Atayal country. All over evidence of a tribal heritage is visible. Often the first sign Taiwanese tribes leave is the colorful decorations, not dissimilar from traditional Africa.


Until relatively recently the aborigines relied heavily on hunting and fishing for survival. Hunting by using bow and arrow and spearfishing used to be common.


But as Taiwan became a modern country, so have the aborigines. Hunting, I am told is still done on a controlled basis, and with firearms. However, the wildlife of boar and deer that once was abundant has dwindled. Spearfishing, along with angling, is a hobby that can still be witnessed in the rivers around Jianshi.

Luckily the headhunting of an bygone area (decapitation of conquered enemy was custom) is truly in the past, and ordinarily the most frightening encounter  in these regions would be the huge orb spiders (which are harmless).


Notice the spider to the left of the statue.
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Tuesday, October 06, 2009

Twenty three siblings!



Finding large families these days is not an easy task but while spending time in Jinshi I met youngsters who were part of a 23 sibling family. I was told by one of the boys that all of them share the same mother and that their parents have been married for 23 years. Some full time job she has!

As the family is part of an aboriginal tribe, Atayal I believe, one wants to feel sorry for the children as reports about unemployment and poverty among the Taiwanese aborigines are well-known. However, the children I met looked healthy and were all attending school - some in Jianshi and the older ones boarding school in Hsinchu.



Their house is large but seems small for such a numerous family. However, since some kids have moved out, and some others in boarding school I suppose it is sufficient. Imagine waking up every morning with a splendid view of the evergreen mountains and spending vacations cavorting in the rivers.

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