Sūào Cold Spring (蘇澳冷泉)

Most people are aware of hot springs which one can find all over the world, and of course are very popular in winter in countries where the temperature dips below freezing, like Japan.




But in Sūào (蘇澳), in Yilan county, a cold spring believed to have medicinal properties puts this sleepy town on the map.

We paid NT$70 per person and enjoyed a lazy morning in the cold waters, hopefully curing whatever skin ailments we may have.

There is an interesting elevated walk way, and arty sculptures to liven up the place.

The baths look old but in a good way. It is also quiet, except for the Kindergarten across the street which was practicing an upcoming musical of sorts.

The water is crystal clear and almost odorless. The bottom of the pool is packed with pebbles from which bubbles rise constantly. I almost expected to see fish swimming around. The water with the bubbles is apparently similar to soda water one can expect to buy as a beverage. So, if soda water is your choice of mixer, all you need to bring is the harder stuff.

For a water massage one can sit under one of several forceful streams spouting into the pool.

As it was a cloudy day and midweek it was not very busy and I could imagine spending the day with a book, alternating between the warm paving and cold water.

People came and left in a constant trickle and I spoke to a group of students who came all the way from Taoyuan to see the sunrise, which was a disaster because of heavy cloud cover and to enjoy the cold spring.

We left the pools, turned pink as we didn’t feel the sun burning through the clouds.

For more information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Su-ao_Cold_Spring or http://tourguide.sinotour.com/scenery774.html

Jinshan Beach (金山鄉) Surfing

Taiwan is definitely not high on the list when it comes to surfing destinations, but maybe that is just what the beginner needs. The waves are almost always calm enough for the utmost beginner to learn the ropes without fear of being overwhelmed by the rolling giants of Hawaii, for example.

The most famous beach for surfing is Honeymoon Bay, but because of proximity Daxi is popular with experienced enthusiasts. For those among us who would like to get our balance on steadier water closer to Taipei, Jinshan (金山鄉) is a 40 minute scooter ride over Yaming Mountain. There are two beaches in Jinshan: The surf beach lies West of Jinshan, while the popular swimming beach is right in town.

One can rent surfboards and get experienced surfers to point out the tricks of the trade.

Although most of the would-be surfers are male, even the pretty sex is into it.

There are some restaurants within walking distance but right by the beach one can buy soft drinks, beer and Taiwanese sausage.

The beach is not the cleanest in Taiwan, but that doesn’t stop people from soaking up the sun.

Some younger guys were throwing and kicking a rugby ball around before collectively attempting to surf.

Skimboarding into the oncoming wave makes for safe but rewarding moves and great action shots….

… even if it takes all day to get it right.

Kite-surfing at Guanyin Beach (觀音)

Taiwan’s North Coast on the Taiwan Strait has some of the most polluted beaches in Taiwan. Indications that these beaches used to be popular and clean can still be seen in the form of empty and deteriorating buildings. Entrances to these once splendid beaches are barred and probably with reason as the next flesh eating super bug most definitely will be spawned from these waters.

One such a beach is Guanyin (觀音). The beach is still accessible but only if you know how to get there. The exits from Road 61 have been blocked and the only road leading to the beach is through the town itself. The sign post is covered but since roadworks have made the road it points to a cul-de-sac, it doesn’t matter anyhow.

However, kite surfer aficionados are using this mostly desolated beach to practice their hobby. On a windy day several kites supporting their drivers can be seen on the brown waters.

They use the dilapidated buildings as a meeting spot, but never venture inside (anymore) as the interior is laden with defecation which seems strategically placed as if done in some weird ritual.

Some of the decorative artifacts are still visible but it is debatable whether anyone would want a faux gargoyle looking down onto a living room.

The beach itself is littered with whatever you can imagine. I recently saw underwear and a syringe in between the usual array of things disposed of by person and factory.

It contrasts sharply with the efforts to be green using wind-generated electricity as can be seen in the distance.

At first I thought the kite surfers mad to surf in thirty degrees Celsius wearing wetsuits, thinking they were taking sunblock a bit too far, but now I understand.

However, should you want to join the sport of kite-surfing, the wind (and the lack of people you might decapitate) makes Guanyin Beach a worthwhile destination.

For beginners the strong winds might be agonizing and I have seen some novices battle to control their kites, and even stay put on their behinds out of frustration.

But for the experienced, it must be a hell of a ride (or flight). Nico from http://www.nicowsf.com can assist would be kite-riders in Taiwan.

To get there follow Road 112 from Zhongli and in Guanyin (觀音) follow the sign to Baishajia Light House, but turn right in Shinyi Rd., or 15 from Hsinchu and in Guanyin turn left in Shinyi Rd. At the temple the road turn sharp left. Follow it under Road 61 and you will see the buildings. A landmark is a huge statue of Guan-Yin, a goddess on your left. The Guanyin township’s website is http://www.guanyin.gov.tw/en/p6_3.html

Zhúběi beach in the late afternoon.

Looking for a place to sun my body, I eventually happened upon a beach in Zhúběi (竹北). Not the best beach in Taiwan but then this IS the Northern West Coast where good beaches have been ruined in order to establish the industrial heart of Taiwan.

A place where fish apparently commit suicide in a desperate attempt to escape the polluted sea.

Unfortunately, it was a bit late in the afternoon to obtain that all-over shade of mud, so I scrutinized the activities on the beach.

A group of people were digging up worms for bait, and told me they are edible.

Sure they are, but do we want to? I’ll leave them for the hungry fish.

Some men, all colleagues had time off and decided to make a day of it. My first impression was that they were a rugby team who came out for bonding. I should remember that rugby is for many locals as alien as biltong. Energetically running around they were in high spirits and full of fun. I would have loved to talk more but my Mandarin still sucks. I must say that even with limited knowledge of each other’s languages something as mundane as a language barrier has never stopped Taiwanese from communicating, or at least trying, and living up to their reputation as one of the friendliest peoples in the world.

A guy can never have a too developed six-pack – ask any forty-year-old! As for the rest, well…

I was wrong about the rugby, but ball play it was. The round ball is definitely more known than the oval one.

They were more than willing to pose and I got several pictures of good-looking Taiwanese men.

Then a Vietnamese national started a conversation. As he doesn’t live too far, he often cycles to the beach and enjoy the warm water. He is a multi-lingual person who can speak Vietnamese, Mandarin and English. But, even adding a Business degree, finding a job in Vietnam proved difficult. So, he came to Hsinchu, leaving behind a wife and child. Being separated from my spouse by an ocean for two years, I know how hard and lonely it can be. Daily webcam just isn’t the same.

And as the sun left to shine its light on a different scene, it was time to head home.

Swimming in the Xindian River

One of my favorite haunts when in Taipei is next to the Xīndiàn River (新店溪) not too far from Bitan (碧潭). During the week it is frequented by regulars, mature men (and women) who have been using this spot to facilitate their daily exercise in the form of a brisk swim across the river. A fleet of taxis is usually evident of the popularity among taxi drivers but also bears testimony to their mobility through their work.

On week-ends the crowd changes to families who sometimes barbecue and school children and as the water is rather deep and the current at times strong, a volunteer life-guard is on duty. This is also where the life-guards in the Xīndiàn (新店市) area receive their training during summer.

Recently, I walked into an old acquaintance at the river which was a blessing as it can get quite lonely with the language barrier. I take all the blame, as it is I who should learn the language of the local population rather than them learning to speak English.

Felix has been coming here for the past ten years or more and has a suntan to show. He is in the lucky position that he lives very close. As a regular he also knows the other frequents and since he speaks English he acts as my interpreter when the need arises.

A couple of years ago, so I am told, storm water after a typhoon washed away or damaged much of the artificial river’s edge and had to be rebuilt. There even used to be a bridge which now lies at the bottom of the river. Markers in the water warn swimmers that it is dangerous to venture blindly onto the collapsed bridge’s debris lurking under the water where steel and concrete can cause bodily harm.

Fishermen line the edge on a good day, but I am told the best time to catch the big one is right after a typhoon when the giants of the river are washed down over the dam wall.

The regulars believe the water to be almost pure and even drinkable, something I won’t try. Not far upstream a net of sort removes litter from the river and water is extracted by a water plant for household use.

Therefore, one sees people coming to the water daily to take a bath. It is a scene reminiscent of an age before running water and electricity but strangely has the appeal of culture not lost. Although this routine is mostly followed by older men and women, I have seen school children bring soap and wash themselves, too.

But not only people congregate here, dogs are brought here for their daily swim. The different personalities show clearly as some dogs can’t wait to jump into the water while others stay clear.

Many owners play fetch with their dogs so repeatedly that I sometimes fear the dog will drown from exhaustion. And then the river is also a good place to wash the dogs!

For me, it is just the place to spend the day in the sun. Or if that gets too much, the coffee shop overlooking the river is within walking distance.