Jianshi Hot Spring (Part 1)

If you have access to one of these, this popular family spot is easily in reach between Taoyuan and Hsinchu, in Jianshi.

Although the road is VERY rocky with fragments piling up in uneven heaps after rains, it doesn't stop 4x4 owners to practice their skills going down. I don't own an SUV but that just means I had to park my scooter higher up the mountain and walk down - something even SUV owners do as the road pays testimony to the difficulty of maneuvering even a off-road vehicle down.

At the bottom of the road lies a hot spring next to the river. AND it's free. Well, not really hot, but warm enough to count as a hot spring. After bathing in the icy river first the heat of the hot spring is very welcome. So, on week-ends groups camp here, barbecue and enjoy the environment.

Taiwan Beer brings people together

The army boys were on leave and so it was a good time to indulge in some Taiwan Beer in front of the store.

A couple of meters down from Michael's home and the store, a waterfall makes a splendid view.

But we are down here for the cool mountain water. And who needs swim wear in Taiwan - undies will do fine. Nothing like enjoying a refreshing swim and basking in the sun afterwards.

Michael looking kewl in the shades.

Twenty three siblings!

Finding large families these days is not an easy task but while spending time in Jinshi I met youngsters who were part of a 23 sibling family. I was told by one of the boys that all of them share the same mother and that their parents have been married for 23 years. Some full time job she has!

As the family is part of an aboriginal tribe, Atayal I believe, one wants to feel sorry for the children as reports about unemployment and poverty among the Taiwanese aborigines are well-known. However, the children I met looked healthy and were all attending school - some in Jianshi and the older ones boarding school in Hsinchu.

Their house is large but seems small for such a numerous family. However, since some kids have moved out, and some others in boarding school I suppose it is sufficient. Imagine waking up every morning with a splendid view of the evergreen mountains and spending vacations cavorting in the rivers.

Swimming in the Xindian River

One of my favorite haunts when in Taipei is next to the Xīndiàn River (新店溪) not too far from Bitan (碧潭). During the week it is frequented by regulars, mature men (and women) who have been using this spot to facilitate their daily exercise in the form of a brisk swim across the river. A fleet of taxis is usually evident of the popularity among taxi drivers but also bears testimony to their mobility through their work.

On week-ends the crowd changes to families who sometimes barbecue and school children and as the water is rather deep and the current at times strong, a volunteer life-guard is on duty. This is also where the life-guards in the Xīndiàn (新店市) area receive their training during summer.

Recently, I walked into an old acquaintance at the river which was a blessing as it can get quite lonely with the language barrier. I take all the blame, as it is I who should learn the language of the local population rather than them learning to speak English.

Felix has been coming here for the past ten years or more and has a suntan to show. He is in the lucky position that he lives very close. As a regular he also knows the other frequents and since he speaks English he acts as my interpreter when the need arises.

A couple of years ago, so I am told, storm water after a typhoon washed away or damaged much of the artificial river’s edge and had to be rebuilt. There even used to be a bridge which now lies at the bottom of the river. Markers in the water warn swimmers that it is dangerous to venture blindly onto the collapsed bridge’s debris lurking under the water where steel and concrete can cause bodily harm.

Fishermen line the edge on a good day, but I am told the best time to catch the big one is right after a typhoon when the giants of the river are washed down over the dam wall.

The regulars believe the water to be almost pure and even drinkable, something I won’t try. Not far upstream a net of sort removes litter from the river and water is extracted by a water plant for household use.

Therefore, one sees people coming to the water daily to take a bath. It is a scene reminiscent of an age before running water and electricity but strangely has the appeal of culture not lost. Although this routine is mostly followed by older men and women, I have seen school children bring soap and wash themselves, too.

But not only people congregate here, dogs are brought here for their daily swim. The different personalities show clearly as some dogs can’t wait to jump into the water while others stay clear.

Many owners play fetch with their dogs so repeatedly that I sometimes fear the dog will drown from exhaustion. And then the river is also a good place to wash the dogs!

For me, it is just the place to spend the day in the sun. Or if that gets too much, the coffee shop overlooking the river is within walking distance.