The Atayal in Jianshi

Neiwan and Jianshi are both Atayal country. All over evidence of a tribal heritage is visible. Often the first sign Taiwanese tribes leave is the colorful decorations, not dissimilar from traditional Africa.

Until relatively recently the aborigines relied heavily on hunting and fishing for survival. Hunting by using bow and arrow and spearfishing used to be common.

But as Taiwan became a modern country, so have the aborigines. Hunting, I am told is still done on a controlled basis, and with firearms. However, the wildlife of boar and deer that once was abundant has dwindled. Spearfishing, along with angling, is a hobby that can still be witnessed in the rivers around Jianshi.

Luckily the headhunting of an bygone area (decapitation of conquered enemy was custom) is truly in the past, and ordinarily the most frightening encounter  in these regions would be the huge orb spiders (which are harmless).

Notice the spider to the left of the statue.

Twenty three siblings!

Finding large families these days is not an easy task but while spending time in Jinshi I met youngsters who were part of a 23 sibling family. I was told by one of the boys that all of them share the same mother and that their parents have been married for 23 years. Some full time job she has!

As the family is part of an aboriginal tribe, Atayal I believe, one wants to feel sorry for the children as reports about unemployment and poverty among the Taiwanese aborigines are well-known. However, the children I met looked healthy and were all attending school - some in Jianshi and the older ones boarding school in Hsinchu.

Their house is large but seems small for such a numerous family. However, since some kids have moved out, and some others in boarding school I suppose it is sufficient. Imagine waking up every morning with a splendid view of the evergreen mountains and spending vacations cavorting in the rivers.

On the way to Wuling Farm

I was invited to go to Wuling Farm (武陵農場) on Friday. http://www.wuling-farm.com.tw/english/index.php As it was a public holiday for some it turned the weekend into a loooooong one. The idea was to meet the rest of our party just outside Taipei on Freeway 5 and it was clear as we got closer that everyone had the same idea. Not only was the traffic moving at a snail’s pace, the gas station that served as our meeting point was as busy as a night market. Because of the congested traffic, everyone was late and we got on our way hours later than planned. The gas station was just off the freeway but it took an hour to get back on Freeway 5 and the road was not any better until we got to Luódōng (羅東). Taiwan has proved itself to be an excellent tunnel constructor as it is so mountainous and I experienced a drive through a 13km tunnel.

It was a bright and sunny day and I felt a pang of regret to have to spend the day in a car. In Yuanshan (員山鄉) we headed for a famous restaurant. In Taiwan restaurants can become instantaneously famous by being featured on TV. A long line of people waited to be seated. Next door the same dish was sold so we went there. The restaurant which was nothing more than a hall with tables served fish balls in a soup. Not something we would call up market back home. As I am not a big fish fan, I declined eating the dish and instead had a vegetarian lunch box.

We drove for hours along a valley that looked more like a dry riverbed at times. I am told that during a typhoon the valley can turn into a river flooding farms and destroying crops. Crops mainly consisted of watermelon which were sold everywhere next to the road.

Higher into the mountains we encountered crops of cabbage. The cabbage patches made a pretty sight but often the smell of fertilizer was overwhelming.

We stopped in a village to buy some vegetables and use the bathroom. Some locals came out to introduce their children to me and as Caucasians are obviously not frequently seen I had my five minutes of fame.

The village seems to be of aboriginal or Atayal origin as seen in the art crafted to beautify the village. A church as opposed to a temple was also evident.