Swimming in the Xindian River

One of my favorite haunts when in Taipei is next to the Xīndiàn River (新店溪) not too far from Bitan (碧潭). During the week it is frequented by regulars, mature men (and women) who have been using this spot to facilitate their daily exercise in the form of a brisk swim across the river. A fleet of taxis is usually evident of the popularity among taxi drivers but also bears testimony to their mobility through their work.

On week-ends the crowd changes to families who sometimes barbecue and school children and as the water is rather deep and the current at times strong, a volunteer life-guard is on duty. This is also where the life-guards in the Xīndiàn (新店市) area receive their training during summer.

Recently, I walked into an old acquaintance at the river which was a blessing as it can get quite lonely with the language barrier. I take all the blame, as it is I who should learn the language of the local population rather than them learning to speak English.

Felix has been coming here for the past ten years or more and has a suntan to show. He is in the lucky position that he lives very close. As a regular he also knows the other frequents and since he speaks English he acts as my interpreter when the need arises.

A couple of years ago, so I am told, storm water after a typhoon washed away or damaged much of the artificial river’s edge and had to be rebuilt. There even used to be a bridge which now lies at the bottom of the river. Markers in the water warn swimmers that it is dangerous to venture blindly onto the collapsed bridge’s debris lurking under the water where steel and concrete can cause bodily harm.

Fishermen line the edge on a good day, but I am told the best time to catch the big one is right after a typhoon when the giants of the river are washed down over the dam wall.

The regulars believe the water to be almost pure and even drinkable, something I won’t try. Not far upstream a net of sort removes litter from the river and water is extracted by a water plant for household use.

Therefore, one sees people coming to the water daily to take a bath. It is a scene reminiscent of an age before running water and electricity but strangely has the appeal of culture not lost. Although this routine is mostly followed by older men and women, I have seen school children bring soap and wash themselves, too.

But not only people congregate here, dogs are brought here for their daily swim. The different personalities show clearly as some dogs can’t wait to jump into the water while others stay clear.

Many owners play fetch with their dogs so repeatedly that I sometimes fear the dog will drown from exhaustion. And then the river is also a good place to wash the dogs!

For me, it is just the place to spend the day in the sun. Or if that gets too much, the coffee shop overlooking the river is within walking distance.